Thursday, February 19, 2015

Next FREE Field Guide - Cornus V Buckthorn

I've been galloping ahead with this publishing lark, it's not so bad once you get into the swing of it.

This weekend I'm offering a FREE download of the latest one:


This one is a neat round-up of the diagnostic features of the commonly-found opposite-leaved shrubs.

Quick and easy to check, it saves having to wade through the detailed botanical descriptions in Rose, Poland etc while out walking or botanising.

Just the salient features, presented in a simple grid format.

All my Field Guides are free to download if you have Kindle Unlimited, or Amazon Prime, but if you don't have either of those (or a Kindle for that matter!) you can still download it for free this coming weekend, 21st and 22nd Feb, and you can also download the "app" (or "programme" as we grown-ups call them) to enable you to read Kindle books on other devices, or on your own PC.

As always, they are aimed at Beginners and Improvers, and I strive to simplify without dumbing down. 

The weather forecast is good for the weekend, so get the kids, get out there, get botanising!

Thursday, February 5, 2015

The Cribs are being published!! Free this weekend!!!

Finally, after months of nagging from my Botany Crew, I have found a way to publish the cribs at minimal cost.

Here's what they used to look like:


... quite literally a pack of cards, hand-written initially, then transferred to the pc,  printed out and stuck to the card. It works beautifully: I can annotate them, then update the printed version.

However, three weeks ago I was introduced to the wonders of the Kindle, and now the cribs are being published electronically: here's number 34 (boy, have I been busy!) and to find it, you just go to Amazon's Kindle eBook page and type in "field guide hellebore" and there it is: once you have found one, just click on the author's name to see all the ones currently available.








They are not all available yet: it takes a while to get each one uploaded, and every time I revise anything they come off the "live" list, but I'm working my way through them whenever I get time.

They are currently priced at £1.99 each, which is the minimum price I can set, but to get round this, I
have devised a cunning plan: each month, for the first weekend of the month, there will be Field Guides offered for free download.

Amazon restrict me as to how many "free" days each book is allowed to have, but I'll try to rotate the titles on offer, so you have a good chance of getting whichever ones you want, for free.

Please bear in mind these are for Beginners, and Improvers. They only cover commonly found species, and they cannot replace a proper Field Guide such as Poland or Rose: they are intended to be an easy-access, non-off-putting way to present the salient information in an easy-to-read format, to people who have gone beyond having to key out every single plant, and who are trying to learn the difference between species.

In fact, they are for people who have gone beyond "It's a Willowherb!" and have reached "But which one?"

This is where these little Field Guides come in: once you are confident enough to recognise that it's a (for example) Willowherb,  you can save time wading through the in-depth botanical descriptions in Rose, Poland, Stace etc,  and merely take a quick look at the Field Guide on your Kindle, which has all the salient information neatly laid out in a grid, so  you can quickly and easily check which characteristics your plant has.

It drives me mad, the way that none of the guides present the information in the same order, even on the same page of their book: and frequently I have had to have three or four reference books open at the same time, as well as extensive internet research, in order to round up all the information required.

And if you don't have a Kindle? Apparently, that doesn't matter, you can download them to your PC, or to other devices, with the help of a simple "app" (or "programme" as we grown-ups say) which Amazon kindly give away for free. Also, if you are a member of Kindle Prime (or some such name) then you can download for free, and I rather think there is another layer of Kindle reading whereby you can "borrow" an eBook for a short time: I think that's a subscription thing, but if you have it, you'll already know about it.

So there you are, the Cribs are/will soon be available, this coming weekend 7/8th Feb will have two books for FREE, Hellebores and Tilia (Limes): do please check them out, use them, annotate them (Kindles are brilliant, you can make notes on your eBooks!) make them your own.

If you spot any mistakes, do let me know: and if you have any feedback or criticism, I'd be pleased to hear it.

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Mystery Conifer

Today's Mystery Tree: a conifer, from Harcourt Arboretum, unlabelled.

Overall tree shape (right)  shows branches ascending at tips.

Last year the foliage on this tree was so dirty - covered in algae, soot, road dirt etc - that we were unable to ID it, we were not even certain what type of conifer it was.

Usually the leaf attachment tells you what genus you are looking at.

In this case we thought last year that the leaves had green petioles (stalks) and it was therefore a Tsuga, and we keyed it out to be Tsuga dumosa (Himalayan Hemlock), but we were not completely convinced.

This year, there was a whole spread of new, clean foliage and we now thought we could see cones in the upper branches, and they were standing upright above the branch, which would suggest Fir (Abies), rather than Tsuga.

The cones (which I could barely see) appeared to have projecting bracts, and to be squat, and dumpy (Two of the less well known dwarves).

A close look at the cleaner foliage suggested it might indeed be Abies, especially when the removal of a couple of leaves left what are clearly round leaf scars:

Leaf scars
Here you can see I have pulled off a couple of the leaves, revealing round leaf scars
Looks like petioles
















And you can see why we would have thought it was a Tsuga, these leaves look just as though they have a slightly twisted, green, petiole.












Bark

Stem
Here's a shot of the bark - I never find bark to be useful in ID, but maybe you will.












And here's a close-up of the stem, which I would define as glabrous, ie not hairy.


As opposed to glaucous, meaning blue-ish.

I keep getting those two confused.
Leaf tips







Leaf tip close up - not notched.

Most Abies species are notched at the tip - the usual exception is Abies concolour, White Fir. But they have leaves the same colour on both sides, which is not the case here.

Mind you, they do appear to have stomatal bands on both surfaces, although they are much broader, whiter, and more clearly defined on the underside.




Trunk

A shot of the trunk, in case it helps.














Underside


Showing the underside of the leaf, two wide stomatal bands visible, plus you can see there is a parting underneath, but not a totally clear one.


The leaves, when crushed, had a faint citrus smell - I thought it was grapefruit, but I'm not good at putting names to smells.









Finally, here's a shot of the bud at the tip of a shoot.

I would describe it as yellowy-green, and resinous.

This shoot is twisted round so it's almost upside down - it shows the parting underneath the shoot, being clearly a parting, but not a completely clear parting, if you see what I mean.

We keyed this one out to be Abies delavayi, but the leaves are not curled back along their margins.

We're confused!

Sunday, October 12, 2014

Scots Pine ID test

If you think you have a Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) ..... you would be looking at a conifer with one single main trunk, and at the upper levels, the bark is often quite orange. Get a sample of the foliage from a low-hanging branch - if you can't reach the branches, check around the base of the tree for fallen branches with fresh foliage.

Firstly, how many needles are there in each bunch? If more than 2, it is definitely not Scots Pine.

If they are in twos,  are they long and slender, or short and stout?

If they are more than 3" (about 75cms) then they are not Scots Pine.

If they are 3" or less, are the individual needles straight, or twisted? And what colour are they - glaucous (bluish grey)? Or fresh green?

If they are straight and glaucous, there's a good chance it's Scots Pine.  If they are twisted and clear green, they are not: they may be Pinus contorta, Lodgepole Pine. I assume that the "contorta" bit refers to the contorted needles, so that's an easy one to remember.

So if you have short (less than 3") needles in pairs, straight, and glaucous, you may well have Scots Pine.

Now for the ID test:

Take one of the needles and pull it apart (grip one end in each hand and pull steadily until it rips). Is the break a clean break, or is there a tuft of fibres sticking out from the broken ends?


Here's a close-up of one I ripped apart earlier:

Can you see the tuft of fibres?

Think of them like a beard... Scotsmen are often depicted in silly stereotyped cartoons as being red-headed, red-bearded figures, so if you combine the redness of the trunk and the "beard" of fibres, well,, there's a way to remember it.

Scots Pine - red, and bearded. Red bark, and a "beard" of fibres if you full a needle apart.

Now get out there and start destroying pine needles! *laughs*

Sunday, December 22, 2013

Introduction to Conifer ID

ID of Conifers is a large and complicated subject, but I recently lead an informal Intro to Conifer ID botany  outing which was very well received.

I'll be doing it again in the New Year, but for the benefit of  iSpotters who don't live in South Oxfordshire (!) here are the basics. Do bear in mind that this is a simplification of a complicated subject!

Before we start, if you wish to learn about conifer ID you really will need a hand lens - a x20  is best, but a x10 will do if that's what you have. They only cost a few pounds for the normal folding type, and the advice to hang it round your neck on string or ribbon really is a good one - it may feel a bit geeky, but if you don't, sooner or later you will put it down in the long grass and lose it. Ask me how I know.. yes, I did it.

And you have to remind yourself of the First Rule Of Botany, which is "Common Names Are Misleading". Closely followed by "and the proper or scientific names keep changing - no use grumbling about it, just deal with it".

Right, here we go.

When we look at trees in general, we split them into two types - they are either Broadleaf or Conifer.

Broadleaf trees have - as you would guess - mostly wide leaves, mostly with veins in a net formation. Conifers have linear leaves: the veins run parallel along their length.

Some people  prefer to call them Deciduous and Evergreen.

Like everything in Botany, its not quite that simple:  some Conifers are deciduous (Dawn Redwood, and Swamp Cypress for example) and some Evergreens are not Conifers - Holly, for example, or Box.

 But it will do for a start.

So, Winter is a good time to look at Conifers/Evergreens, as they are (generally speaking, allowing for the exceptions mentioned above) the green ones, making them easier to spot.

When we look at Broadleaf trees in summer, our first point for an ID is the arrangement of the leaves - are they opposite or alternate?

When IDing conifers, we don't initially look for the arrangement, we firstly look for the type of leaf.

Conifers have three types of leaf  - needle, flat, or scale.
(As always, this is a simplification, but you have to start somewhere)

Needles are, as the name suggests, round and pointed. Pine are the obvious ones.
Flat leaves are generally long and thin, but are flattened - Yew would be the most familiar one.
Scale leaves require a hand lens to see clearly - things like the infamous Leylandii have scale leaves.

So the first thing you do is look at the foliage, and decide if it is a needle, a flat leaf, or a scale leaf.

Group 1) Needles.

These are needles - long and thin.

When looking at needles, the first thing is to count how many there are in each bundle.

Check several bundles to ensure you didn't pick an aberrant bunch... they are generally found in 2s, 3s, or 5s (these are all Pines or Pinus) or in clumps of 10 or more - which means Larch (Larix) or Cedar (Cedrus).

So already you have learned an easy ID trick: if confronted with needles, if they are in bundles of 5 or less, you can say with confidence "it's a Pine."

If in 10 or more, is it Larch, or is it Cedar? In winter it is easy to tell - Larch are deciduous, Cedar are not. So if the ground underfoot is covered with dead needles, and you had trouble finding a branch with any good foliage on it, it's Larix. As a broad generalisation, Cedars are stately, shapely trees, often planted in gardens or parks as individuals. You rarely find Larch all alone - it's a cash crop, fast-growing, so it's usually found in plantations - rows and rows of them all together. In addition, Larch have small cones, which tend to stick to the branches even when the needles have fallen, plus they have a habit of shedding branches, so in a Larch woodland, you will usually find plenty of twigs and branches on the floor, all with a number of small cones still in place.

Cedar, on the other hand, have large oval cones which do not fall - they shatter over time, on the tree, so you hardly ever find a compete Cedar cone, you normally only find individual scales:




Group 2) Flat leaves.

Long and thin, but flattened. They usually have two lines of whiteness underneath - these are stomatal bands, or bands (stripes) of stomata, which are the pores through which a leaf breathes. They often show up as silvery against the green leaf, but as so many Conifers have them, they are not all that much use in ID.

This group includes the familiar garden Yew, the exotic Redwoods, the less-familiar Tsuga, and everything we think of as a Christmas Tree,  including Firs (Abies) and Spruces (Picea). It also includes my personal favourite, Douglas Fir, which is not a Fir at all. More of that later.

Picea omorika - Serbian Spruce
This is a hand-lens close-up of Picea omorika or Serbian Spruce.

As you can see, long thin flat leaves, and lots of white stomatal bands.

The way the leaf is attached to the stalk is a major factor in IDing this group of Conifers, so we will look at that in more detail later.

So far, I have not been able to come up with a catchy name for Conifers in Group 2, so if any of you out there know of something, do let me know, otherwise I shall have to make something up, and that is simply "not done" in botany.


Group 3) Cupressaceae.

There you go, a nice new word for you to learn. Koo-press-ay-cee. Think about the "press" part of the name, as it contains the clue to this group - it's those with scale-like leaves, or leaves which have been "pressed" against the stem.

As mentioned at the start, it's a generalisation, but the term Cupressaceae can be taken to cover most of those Conifers that don't have either needles or flat leaves. This means (she said with a straight face) that you can look through your hand lens at the foliage and say, solemnly, and instantly, "It's a cupressaceae"  which will impress all non-botanists. In fact, you can probably look at a conifer from about five paces, see that it's neither needled nor leaved, and say knowingly "Ah, looks like a cupressaceae from here, but of course without my hand lens I can't tell you exactly which one."

Here's a random selection from the internet:


As you can see, they are all somewhat flattened, the branchlets tend to be in one plane - pressed, you could say, Koo-PRESS-ay-ceee -  and the smallest twigs are almost rope-like.

At first, they all look the same, but once you start looking through your hand lens at this group, you will start to see the differences - honestly!

They are a difficult group - but some are easier than others, and some have a strange beauty all of their own, when viewed through a hand lens: here is a close-up of some Calocedrus decurrens or Incence Cedar.

Please note, as per opening statement, that this, along  with Thuja plicata or Red Cedar, is not actually a Cedar. Cedars are in the genus Cedrus, and they have needles... I know, I know, you just have to learn to call them by their proper names.

And these strange spiky-looking things, left, are actually common or garden Lawson Cypress, as seen and photographed through a hand lens.

Amazing, aren't they?

Well, that was the briefest of introductions to Conifer ID, explaining the three main groups or types of conifers. Having grasped that idea, we can now start our walk up to the conifer area (heh heh, secret location) to put it into practice.

We will be watching the ground as we go, to see what is fallen: cones and needles are usually very visible, and give us good clues as to what is above.

We look at the foliage and decide if they are needles (if so, how many), or flat leaves, or scale leaves. This gives us a head-start to know which genus the Conifer is likely to be.

And that is quite enough for one post - next time we will look at each of the three groups in more detail.

Friday, July 5, 2013

Digital microscopes...

Alyson was asking about Digital USB Microscopes, and would you believe, I actually have one.

One of those terribly embarrassing things where someone kind asks what what you'd like, you say "Ooh, ooh, a DUM please," they buy you one, you use it for five minutes, then put it in a drawer...

I've just dug it out again, and taken photos of a couple of leaves, both with the DUM and with my hand-lens-and-cheap-mobile-phone trick.


Item one: Common Lime leaf with nail galls.

Taken with DUM, which has its own built-in light.


2: same leaf, using hand-lens x20 and the light from the DUM.

Ah, I'm not actually in the same place on the leaf, so that's not a very good comparison, sorry, but it was so beautifully in focus that I felt I had to include it.

Focusing is a bit of an issue in both cases - more below.
 Right, same as top picture, the fork in the veins, one big one, one liddle one, not quite at the same angle.

Again, hand-lens, this time using its own in-built light.

 .


 This is a pear leaf with damage and browning, taken with the x20 hand lens.



This is the same leaf, with the DUM. Much better definition on the small veining.

Regarding focusing, each method has problems.

As mentioned in the Amazon review for the DUM, the stand it comes with is not particularly good. It would be a worthwhile investment to get a better one.

I found that you have to hold the body of the DUM in order to twist the focusing ring, then when you release it, of course it's not quite in focus any more. It takes a bit of practice to get it right, and it's a shame they don't have a mouse-operated digital focus for it.

The hand-lens is simpler, but again it's sometimes difficult to get the focus just right.

In both cases, I imagine that practice would make, well, if not perfect, then a lot better.

The DUM is advertised as being 10x -200x, but I did not find a way to select the magnification - it was more a case of twisting the zoom until the object became sharp. But I haven't used it for aaaaages and there might be more instructions on the CD that came with it.

Hope this helps!

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Tilia crib for Pete


Hi Pete, *waves*

As discussed, the ID of Lime trees - Tilia -  is really difficult as they hybridise so freely. The books say that there are three main types: Common, Large leaved, and Small leaved, with Common being a hybrid of the other two. Plus a few more ornamental varieties, but I don't worry too much about those as they are not likely to be found outside of parks and aboretums. Arboreta? You know what I mean.Oh, and disregard the phrases "large leaved" and "small leaved" as the size of the leaves is NO sort of indicator, annoyingly!

Be warned, they continue to hybridise, so there are in fact a wide range of hybrids, all shading from closer to one, than the other. So they don't always fall neatly into their category.

Having said all that,  I made a crib, or Table of Differences, for Limes last year (or was it the year before?) which now seems a bit basic, but it might get you started on creating your own crib:


As you can see, very simple: it's not a key, simply a collection of relevant ID points all in one place, for the three main Limes plus the one that I've encountered locally - of course, you are most welcome to add as many other species as you wish, I restrict mine to commonly occurring species, in order to keep them down to A6 size for my  famous Botany Cribs pack  (which certain members of the Midweek Botany Crew keep trying to steal). They usually start out hand written, but after an Incident on a rainy day, I decided to copy them all onto spreadsheet format, so that I had a permanent copy at home.

This has proved to be a very good way of doing it: I print them out and stick them onto the index cards, I can then annotate while out in the field, then at home I update and reprint every so often. And when they get too wet to read, I just print off new ones.

Here's my battered pack:


Hope this gets you started - the idea is that you fill in any gaps, and add more features as you discover them. Obviously I don't bother with any features that they all share, just in features that help to differentiate.

When you come across a tree that doesn't quite fit any of the categories, then you have to turn to the reference books, but at least the crib can cut down the number of times you need to do that.

Have fun!